Norway Heading North of North - Week 6

Sunday, we followed the FV17 (Helgeland Tourist Route) hoping to get to Bodø but we were held up waiting for ferries. The weather was beautiful and they sold ice creams, so we weren’t complaining. The scenery was as stunning as usual and I still can’t believe how lucky we are. The one thing that really stands out is the complete lack of litter at the sides of the roads. Instead, there’s an abundance of wild flowers with butterflies and bees buzzing round them. Why can’t all countries respect nature like they do in Scandinavia?

The following day we drove some more and this time, we caught the ferries just in time. You just turn up and pay the assistant so no need to pre book. I’m sure, if you were in a rush, you could find a timetable online, but luckily we weren’t.

On the Helgelandskysten Route there are 6 boats to catch in all and on the Kilboghamn to Jektvik boat, they announced over the tannoy that we’d crossed the Arctic Circle!! We could have driven up the E6 to Mo I Rana and gone to the Arctic Circle Trail where everyone goes to have their photo taken but we were wanting to see a glacier.

We knew there was a huge one called Svartisen that you could go and see but even researching it on the VisitNorway website, we couldn’t pin point the actual place to view it from. If you drive the last bit of the route you come across it. You really can’t miss it and it’s stunning!! The Norwegians have even provided a camping spot with toilets and a Motorhome service point complete with flower beds and a stunning view of the glacier itself ... free of charge!

We got up the next morning, still in awe at our surroundings, and headed a bit further down the mountain road. We caught the little Svartisen ferry as foot passengers and went across the Holandsfjord to the other side. We wanted to walk the 3kms to the face of the glacier (or Iceberg as Andy keeps jokingly calling it lol). It was a 3km walk plus a 1.5km vertical climb which they forgot to mention, up rocks and everything!!! It took us a good few hours and we were shattered when we got back. Is was worth it though.

 

We’ve been so lucky with the weather. It was hot and sunny when we climbed to the bottom of the glacier. The following day it didn’t stop raining until we got to Saltstraumen. We managed to watch the worlds largest tidal current at high tide in the sunshine. It kept us occupied for an hour although it didn’t live up to our expectations. I think you had to be there at certain times of the year to see the full force of the water creating all the maelstroms.

Expectations

Reality lol

We decided not to go to Bodø when we got to the end of the FV17 and instead headed for the Bognes to Lodigon ferry. It was the same as all the others we’ve been on. Just turn up, get in line and pay the attendant when they come round for the fare. It was just under an hours crossing and very calm luckily.

Before we knew it we were driving off the other side and onto the stunning Lofoten Islands. Flippin heck, if Norway is Scotland on steroids, then the Lofotens are Norway on steroids. It’s sooo beautiful it’s really hard to take it all in.

I thought we would be cold in the Arctic, but apparently not. Andy drove down the jaw droppingly beautiful E10, the Lofoten Tourist Route, in the glorious sunshine, while I hung out the window taking photos. If we’d stopped at every photo opportunity, we would have only travel 2 miles a day haha. We made our way to Henningsvaeg, a gorgeous little fishing village. We drove past sea water that was not only blue and turquoise but jade green as well. I swear I have never seen water those colours before. The Lofotens really are food for the soul.

Last night we parked in an area with toilets etc over looking a beach. I love Norway's 'right to roam' policy so much!! Andy asked what the weather forecast was tomorrow so I told him what my Dad used to say to me ... it will either rain or go dark before morning. We both laughed because here, at this time of year, it doesn't go dark at all.

We decided to give ourselves a day off today and just chill out. It’s been great sat in the sunshine watching all the children playing on the beach and in the sea. I really didn’t expect the Arctic to be like this at all. I’m so glad we came.

Harriet's Hints
Nearly all the Motorhome Service points in Norway for water and waste have been listed on the App 'Park4Night'. And, try 'wild camping', some of the places you can spend the night are stunning!!